People of planet Earth, if you’re crazy enough to go extreme, if you’re a fan of falling on amazing slopes, or being a pro on some of the best powders in the world (not the Colombian one, or maybe that as well but not in the same time), La Plagne in the French Alps is the epic location you should definitely go. By Crom, that place is mad! Once again I can say that the French know how to do tourism, in this case especially during ‘winta’.
Weather
I was there at the end of January and it was “raining” snow almost every day. I was staying at PLAGNE 1,800 and temperatures varied between -15ºC during the day to -25ºC at night. Higher up on the slopes, even during the day, temperatures could’ve easily dropped towards the -20s.
Transport
From London you can take the Eurostar’s direct train to Bourg-Saint-Maurice (the faster route, about 8 hours), or take the Eurostar to Paris Gare du Nord, approx. 2:30H, then take the Metro 4/5 to Gare de l’Est (East Railway Station) that will take you there in ten, or you can walk for ten to go to the station, it’s up to you. There you’ll board their famous blue TGVs (Train de Grande Vitesse) that will be in Aime La Plagne in about 6.5 hours. The speed they run with is crazy! As you arrive in Aime train station (the stop for Mâcot-la-Plagne), one stop before Bourg-Saint-Maurice, there are local buses that will take you up the mountain to the main resorts at La Plagne village, for about 8 Euros. If you are staying midway on the mountain before La Plagne village you have hourly shuttle buses at certain times in the morning and evening, picking skiers and snowboarders from their resorts and taking them to the main slopes in La Plagne, which is end of line for wheeled vehicles.
To have access to all lifts and cable cars that take you up the mountains, after sliding down at your own pace and style, hopefully still standing on the board, you have to buy your ski pass in advance online from here. If you pre-book it it’s cheaper, I paid for mine for seven days about £180.00. You’ll need that everywhere you go to tap it and get access to the lifts. If you don’t have one you won’t be able to go up the slopes. Plus, you hold on to it at the end of your holiday to top it up when you return, not needing to go to the office and get a new one. So, your next time there you’ll just go straight to the slopes. Oh, yes, when you arrive there first time you need to go to their office in La Plagne to collect your ski pass. Talk to them in a bit of French and they’ll give you a nice welcoming smile. I finished my French fast, then changed to English and they started laughing and flirting.
If you want to take the cable car connecting different areas in Paradiski (this is how they call the area that comprises multiple ski resorts up to Bourg-Saint-Maurice, the most commercial destination out of all), you should go for Paradiski Unlimited, which is more expensive. The difference is not that high, it only depends on what you plan to do while there. I’m telling you, if it’s your first time there, La Plagne is more than enough for seven days.
Culture
They are very tourism orientated and you’ll find everyone very welcoming. In their menus you’ll find mainly their dishes, which are more than delicious, and also second options for the pretentious, like pizzas, burgers and Heineken. Personally, I would not go for the latter option, unless it is a quattro formaggi pizza with melted roquefort on top.
Attractions
Igloo bar is exactly what the name says, an igloo shaped location with happy beautiful people. Go there and meet someone new while drinking yourself to happiness.
You have to visit the Bellecôte glacier at 3,200m. I had no chance to go inside as the entrance had been covered with snow the night before my attempt. The view from there was incredible.
La Roche de Mio is the last stop by cable car before the glacier and there you can have a hot mulled wine and eat something. If you’re not planning to continue up, you can head down on the slopes.
Enjoy the sauna, steam room and heated outside pool in Residence Pierre at Vacances in PLAGNE 1800 Plagne Lauze. Make it special with a glass of champagne on the side of the pool and some candles during the night.
Nightlife
They have a bunch of amazing pubs and restaurants you can really enjoy, even with live bands playing in lodges ripped out of elves stories. I felt entranced the entire time I was there and I wasn’t on shrooms. Just be aware they are closing early, 12ish at night, to give everyone time to rest for the next day. After all, it’s a ski resort. For a live band experience head to Belle Plagne. There are opportunities to find yourself a romantic partner during your stay, but keep in mind most people go there with someone. I’m pretty sure that if you’re in the right mood and in the right place at the right time, even on the slopes, you might get lucky. I think I heard this in a song somewhere… Anyway, happy fishing!
Shopping
Do you go skiing to shop? C’mon, really!? You do have some options in La Plagne’s commercial centre, but mostly for souvenirs. Get something on the way home and just absorb the amazing place you’re in, get it in your blood if possible.
Gear
Bring your own (nice one), or book it in advance for bargains from SKISET. They have shops in each resort. I would recommend to have your own boots and helmet though. You don’t want to know the smell coming from the steamy footwear, and trust me, you will sweat a lot, even at -25ºC. I got my snowboard and bindings from them. When the guy told me I’m goofy I felt like punching him, but at least I’m not regular. Joke aside, if you slide right foot forward you’re goofy, the other way and you’re regular. Try to be both on the slopes for increased coolness. I’m only goofy, damn it! 🙂
For ski or snowboard lessons subscribe with ESF (Ecole de Ski Française). For about 200 Euros you can get three days of training and the instructors are really good. Though, be prepared to suffer! Book more lessons and save money. They also have ski schools for kids, like Piou Piou, where you can leave your child on good hands, so you can have some quality time with your partner. 😉 Book your lessons here.
Food
Being a mountainous area they have a sausage culture (saucisse), meat and cheese. Go to up the mountain at Belle Plagne (idyllic place by the way) and order the raclette in La Godille. For about 30 Euros you get a huge melting slice of cheese and a satisfying platter with delicious cold meats. The restaurants there don’t have a very high rating, but trust me they are good. People are sometimes, in my opinion, too critic about nothing and they forget it is countryside. I enjoyed it fully. Just make sure you eat soups as well during your stay, because eating too much cold food or meat is not good for your overall wellbeing and you’ll feel sluggish on the slopes. La Plagne has also a centre with restaurants where you can eat, drink and party till late.
Accommodation
I stayed in a studio at Residence Pierre et Vacances Plagne Lauze. It is located meters from the shuttle bus stop, it has a warm water pool to go skinny dipping in plain air, a sauna, steam room and plenty of character. The clean apartments look great, the heating is good, they are equipped with everything you need to cook your own food and inside the lodge you have your own dedicated space to put your gear under lock. I recommend the location, even though there is no room service. At the end of your stay you have to leave the room as you found it. I felt extremely comfortable and the sight from my balcony was bliss. If you go there with your family and kids there are amazing apartments looking like they’re coming straight from the movies. They also have their own restaurant where you can enjoy mulled wine, a soup, or some traditional dishes. The staff were welcoming, helpful and sexy. Vive la France!
Travel yourself to life!
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