Weather
Sardinia is the second largest Italian island and has a Mediterranean climate, which is one of the mildest and healthiest climates on the planet. I was there half-September and although we caught some rain during our stay, the daily temperatures were still going towards the 30ºC. Inside the island you have hot dry air and more humid as you get close to the sea. Water temperature was about 20ºC.
Transport
The island is pretty large and mountainous. We stayed in Olbia area, on the north-eastern part. I cannot say anything about the local transport because we rented a car. What I can advise is that you definitely need one. Otherwise you’ll probably have to use Taxis, or get fried in the scorching sun waiting for a delayed local bus that will probably drop you off in the middle of nowhere. Olbia Costa Smeralda is the island’s main airport and it’s a centre point for all the goodies out there. Depending on your stay you might land on a different airport, like Cagliari Elmas Airport, or Alghero Fertilia Airport. Rent you own vehicle! You will have to drive through highly dangerous curves up and down the steep mountains, therefore renting a Diesel won’t do you good. Go petrol if you don’t want to get sick, and please everybody, look at the road.
Culture
You should know by now that all Italians are very attached to their geographical roots and the ones in Sardinia are called Sardinians, not Italians. During our stay we had good and very poor experiences with the people there. Sardinians are world renowned for their long lives and that is due to eating healthy and, especially, because of not giving a damn about the rest of the world. To understand what I’m saying, they refused to give us ice on the beach after we had lunch in their restaurant. This happened in Long Beach Cafe, at Liscia Ruja beach. Their 3* rating on Google says it all. Consider them living by the Hakuna (“there is not here”) principle, without the Matata (“problems”). The island has a rich and long history, which is one of the oldest in Europe.
Attractions
Visit the archeological sites and indulge yourself with knowledge, if you are a fan. Being there with one of my former girlfriends, you can imagine that visiting historical sites was the last thing we were looking forward to.
Beaches, beaches, beaches! That is what Sardinia is famous for. We visited some cities there like Olbia and Arzachena and we were surprised to find out that there isn’t much to do there. In Arzachena especially we couldn’t understand what people were doing there, except existing, passing through a meaningless life; they didn’t even have any proper restaurants. You need to understand that Sardinia has many very old little villages and if you go there to relax, you’re going to the right place. Now, what type of relaxation are you looking for? In Arzachena they even had speakers placed on buildings playing a local radio. We felt like they were about to announce a bombing or a major catastrophe.
About Olbia I’m only going to say this: Airport, Blocks, Harbour, Industrial Zone, Get Out. I am sure there is still something you can enjoy there, but we weren’t willing to search more for what we couldn’t see.
Porto Cervo is a small medieval village for the rich. It is a great place to visit, but not for the usual shopping. Visit the calm Marina and enjoy one of your best days on the island. When you have built up the necessary courage and filled your stomach in one of the gourmet restaurants, go check the prices in shops like Bvlgari, Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana and many more. That is a main destination for the rich due to a tradition established by Enzo Ferrari himself. Now you know.
There are plenty amazing beaches in that area, but the one we visited is Liscia Ruja. The water is crystal clear and have a lot of sand to play with. It actually looks like a small gulf. At times the waves can really make it entertaining. You pay roughly 10 Euros for the loungers and 10 Euros for parking in the bushes. Yes, you need to pay for parking near the beach. The ones that refused had been fined by the local authorities. Sardinians like fining tourists, I’m telling you… Do not park where you shouldn’t. Go to the parking place and just tell the guy you’re gonna stay there for just 4 hours, maybe less. If you tell him you’re staying more, you’ll pay more. If you stay more, no one will ask you for more money on exit. If it’s high season expect them to check your ticket though. Be smart!
For some of your best time in Sardinia, actually on another nearby island, go to La Maddalena village on Isola Maddalena. It’s very tiny, but with a lot of attitude and crystal clear waters. They also have very good cheese and cured ham. We really enjoyed our time there, even though the weather was not on our side. Grab the ferry from Palau, another village to the north of the island. They have nice beaches in that area as well. Return tickets will cost you roughly 15 Euros. It’s worth it.
Nightlife
Restaurants are the best you will get out of Sardinia’s nightlife in the Olbia area. If you find a good club there which is open till late, do let me know.
Shopping
Oh man, oh man! Definitely Porto Cervo. You’ll love it and probably hate it in the same time. We decided to be neutral and let other people get the swagger.
Food
For good food go to Porto Cervo and surroundings and in Poltu Quatu, where we actually stayed. For a good start of the day and breakfast go to Chez Panin (very nice staff) for some delicious cured ham panini, or amazing Sardinian salad with deliciously and real red baby tomatoes, rucola and parmesan. Hmm, just try it!
For an amazing romantic dinner with addictive views of the Marina go to Grand Hotel Poltu Quatu‘s five star restaurant and enjoy dishes that will make you ask for the recipe. They won’t give it to you in a polite way. Choose from a great variety of sea fruit, fish and meat. You have to try the Angus beef steak. One of the best restaurants we’ve both been to. Their wine wasn’t bad either, just don’t buy wine with a screwing metal cap, that’s a blasphemy. Wine should always be bottled with a cork and made 100% from grapes!
In Poltu Quatu you also have other locations where you can eat, all along the beautiful marina promenade.
Accommodation
Grand Hotel Poltu Quatu is difficult to reach from Olbia airport, but it paid off. The arrangement of the hotel and location is amazing. When you go inside you feel like you’re entering the garden of Eden. It is a 5 star location, but some bits and pieces here and there make it less than that. They knew we were a couple and they gave us a room with two beds and view to a stone wall. Luckily, there was a road between us creating diversity and we found comfort in the fact that we could have our own privacy and wonder about on the terrace completely naked. We didn’t know what to think about the beds though and asked to change the room. Of course they were fully booked and could not change it… They eventually rearranged the two beds into one king bed and we were promised we won’t feel the difference. Oh, the pleasure of feeling the beds going sideways while making love… Due to this I would not give it a 5 star, but an indulgent 4 star (mostly for the looks). Plus, the staff looked and spoke (when finally decided to attend us) like someone was holding a gun to their temple. Anyway, we decided to disregard that and enjoy our holiday. So, due to it’s location and arrangement, if I was to go there again, I would give this hotel a second try. Just make sure they confirm it with you beforehand. It is a highly relaxing location, despite the poor service in some areas.
Travel yourself to life!
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